SU Carbs - Quick reference needle selection

Since there is already a very good source of starting points/applications for fixed needle carbs, this is for those floundering about in the wilderness that is the biased (swinging) needle example of the breed.

Unfortunately I cannot give an all-encompassing table of what needles are needed for which engine builds. My life's collection of all the automotive-orientated work I'd ever done was stolen out of my car by some low-life scum a few years back. Not for what it was - but for what it might be. All I have is a few scribbled notes, the source of where I start now. Being an oft-voiced question on the message board, I thought I'd share it with you. Since there is already a very good source of starting points/applications for fixed needle carbs, this is for those floundering about in the wilderness that is the biased (swinging) needle example of the breed.

CAM TIMING - Conventional method using DTI, etc...

Equipment required - one 0.500” minimum capacity DTI with magnetic stand, 360-degree protractor and a piece of reasonably thick gauge wire to use as a pointer. Terminology - DTI - Dial Test Indicator/dial gauge Protractor - degree wheel TDC - Top Dead Centre, when piston is at highest point in bore BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre, before piston reaches highest point in bore ATDC - After Top Dead Centre, after piston has reached highest point in bore. Rotate crank so piston one is at the bore top (TDC). Fit timing gears 'dot-to-dot'. Set up DTI with stem resting on number one piston centre with a little preload. Rotate crank backwards slightly (anti-clockwise looking at the front), then gently forwards observing the DTI, watching where the needle stops before descending. This is TDC. Repeat this procedure, stopping when the needle reaches its zenith. Zero the dial scale, and repeat until satisfied the needle shows zero on the scale.

Gearbox - Up-rating diffs and FDs

There’s a good selection of straight-cut final FDs available. Examine the FD table, and using information from

'Gearbox - Final dives, standard' and 'Gearbox - Formulae for car speed, etc.'

you can assess which would best suit your usage. Bear in mind that they’re noisy, make sure you select one that’ll fit your diff unit, and also consider that using drop gears will allow fine-tuning of the ratio where necessary. See

'Gearbox - Up-rating drop gears'

Gearbox - Up-rating diffs, FDs and ancillaries.

part numbers: C-BTA166, C-BTA167, DAM6624, BTA101, 2A7062, DAM5071, DAM6027, RPS1418, C-AJJ3385, C-22A1731, ...Read more

GEARBOX - Close-Ratio Conversion Pre-A+ Gearbox

As outlined in the 'Gearbox - standard production gearbox types' article, it is entirely possible to change the common 4-syncro gearboxes to the helical close-ratio set-up as used in the Cooper S, 1275GT, 1300GT, and some early MG Metros providing the right parts can be sourced. And you don't already un-knowingly have the close-ratio kit fitted! Part numbers are detailed at the end.

The other pre-requisite for this conversion is that it can only be applied to the early, pre-A+ type mainshaft gears. That's those that have the square-topped teeth as supposed to the distinctively pointed A+ profile. This is because despite being endowed with A+-type fittings for the mainshaft end and layshaft, the conversion gears have the pre-A+ tooth profile. This is not to say that the conversion cannot be put into an A+ gearbox casing - it can and is detailed in the relevant article.

What is essential to understand is that the pre-A+ second and third mainshaft gears are going to be

Rocker gear - General compendium

Whether you’re building a solid road performer or fire-breathing monster, the main goal is to improve air/fuel flow into the engine. The more you can get in, the more power you can get out. Cheapest chunk of power improvement comes from sorting the asthmatic manifolding and exhaust by applying a stage one kit. Then what? Considering the ‘get more in to get more out’ theme, the main restriction - all else being equal - is the valves and their behavior. How big they are, how efficient they are and how long they’re open for determines how much gets in with each gulp each bore/piston makes. Modified cylinder heads are popularly next, although it has to be said that although a well modified cylinder head will improve performance, the gain against cost is nowhere near that given by the ‘stage one’ kit application. A good stage one kit’s improvement verses cost is around £12.50 per 1 hp, a decent modified head typically £30 per 1hp - dependent on application. Hmm.

Engine - 1098, Initial Tuning

The 1098 (1100) engine has had a lot of bad press over the years - largely because of early experiences when trying to tune the motor brought about problems with the then standard components available - they simply were not up to taking any real punishment as experienced in racing.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

This fallacy was handed down generation to generation like some scary bedtime story. Those that have used the unit in more recent years, employing more capable componentry know what a demon motor this can be. Following is an initial look at what it will do with a little modification - the results compared directly with it's smaller brother the 998 for illustration of the potential.

Abridged History
When the Mini was first conceived it ustilised a de-stroked version of the then quite remarkable 948cc A-series engine.

Engine - 998 Tuning, Bolt-ons

The 998cc engine is a very robust and tunable unit. It is also the most common engine found in standard Minis. See bottom for useful part numbers Terminology: MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania ID - Inside Diameter OD - Outside Diameter BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units) SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998) BHP - Brake Horse Power LCB - Long Centre Branch Despite the lure of the much-advertised 1380cc alternatives, many simply want to get a little more from what they have at reasonable outlay. The single biggest restriction on any standard Mini is the 'breathing apparatus' - anything that is connected to the induction and exhaust systems. The standard exhaust being the biggest culprit - it is desperately restrictive in the name of noise suppression and cheapness of manufacture. Oddly enough it also increases fuel consumption when tested over a better designed, fre

GEARBOX - standard production gearbox types

The first Minis rolled off the production line with a three-syncro gearbox, first gear as explained earlier was still a hit and miss affair.

Terminology -
FD - Final Drive

NOTE; A 'high' or 'low' ratio gear is in reference to it's performance, not it's numerical number. To illustrate - a 'high' FD ratio will give 'higher road speed', but will have a numerically low figure. A 'low' FD ratio will give lower road speed, but have a numerically high figure. A by-product of this will be reduced acceleration capability on the 'high' ratio, increased acceleration capability on the 'low' ratio. The main gearbox gears work in the exact same way.

I’m sure we’re all aware of Sir Alec Issigonis’ brilliant solution to the gearbox location in the Mini - just fold it up underneath the engine, simple. Following is a résumé of the production gearboxes to date.

Air filtration - K&N Air cleaner test.

In the forefront of Mini tuning, improving the over-all breathing capability of the very asthmatic A-series the air filter set-up is one that sees priority attention. All the widely available (and widely varying) stage one tuning kits include at the very least a replacement - and hopefully - high-flow air filter element to fit into the standard plastic case,

In the past few years (well, must be nearly 6 years by now!) since I got involved with writing for the specialist Mini Magazines I have been continually fighting with the problem of limited space. This has limited what I have been able to cover, both in subjects and in details. Up until recently (say the past year or so) I have been covering fairly broad topics in a fairly broad terms and detail. Basically trying to cover perhaps the most popular areas dabbled in by the Mini owning masses.

Engine - 998 tuning, bolt-ons (stage one)

The 998cc engine is a very robust and tunable unit. It is also the most common engine found in standard Minis. Despite the lure of the much-advertised 1380cc alternatives, many simply want to get a little more from what they have at reasonable outlay.

Terminology:
MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania
BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998)
BHP - Brake Horse Power
CR - Compression Ratio

To improve engine out-put, you need to increase the engine's 'breathing' ability. The stage one kit deals with all the easily bolted-on external parts, and represents the best increase for investment. From here on in the power increases will cost commensurately more money.

Engine - 1275, 95bhp sports/tourer test result

DIY enthusiasts often believe that building an engine to give excellent all-round road performance is beyond them. Mainly from comparisons made between what they have been able to achieve and what specialists say should be achievable from any particular type of engine build.

Generally scrambled further by the non-perfect match of parts and components used between aforementioned specialist and erstwhile DIY-er, and the ritual 'nose-tapping and knowing winks' display of those specialists. Something you can very nearly 'see' even when talking to such folk on the phone - or that inimitable 'ah, yes, well…' So some form of 'black art' is implied. Whilst there is most definitely a degree of 'feel' involved between the real specialist's results and those of just a good engineer - the bones of the deal is subject to no such thing and is certainly within the capability of the DIY enthusiast given the necessary information. And that has been the problem.

Engine - Metro engine identification data

The widespread and prolific fitment of Metro engines into Minis - usually those endowed as standard with small-bore (850/998/1098) engines - practiced in the UK has been spreading to many other countries worldwide.

So it's not surprising that the most commonly asked question has also become more prolific concerning the fitment of said engine - apart from actually how to manage the transplant and the differences in the installations, covered in articles relevant article on this site - is just which type of engine the individual concerned has bought or what they already have fitted to their car and is it worth keeping or junking. One initial question I pose often draws a pregnant silence whilst said inquiree scrambles their brains trying to find an answer for. Following that protracted pause, 'I dunno' is the usual answer. I then have to get into a lengthy explanation as to how to determine what said engine is.

Exhausts - RC40, Millennium and others tested

The recent rolling road re-test of the 1275 engine build I did saw an opportunity to do some exhaust systems testing.

I had noticed a few years back that the RC40 was being manufactured by a different process than the originals - giving rise to a change in the shape of the bends applied to the system. I had wondered if they would be causing a restriction at all - but hadn't had the opportunity to test it. The lack of expected power from the aforementioned engine lead me to investigate all possible angles from the tyre contact patch to the carb mouth. I found nothing that explained the 14 or so bhp I was 'missing'. After some application of the old grey cells I mentally narrowed cause down to one of two things - either the piston oil control rings were still causing excessive drag (75% of all internal friction of an engine is generated by the piston rings) or perhaps these new bends in the venerable RC40 were indeed causing a power loss.

SU Carbs - HIF, a more finely honed instrument

Modern technology continually sweeps its ever-growing arm across all manufactured products and the SU was no exception. From closer scrutiny, and more demanding emissions control the HIF variant was born. So what have they done to improve it over its predecessor - the HS - and is it worth hanging out for? PROS. Integral float - the 'IF' in the new type number HIF. The previous H and HS type carbs with their side-mounted remote float bowls worked fine until used in racing where serious cornering speeds generated enough G-forces to lean-out the fuel mixture. The remedy was to fit a spacer between the float lid and float bowl to raise the fuel level held in it. OK when running, but at idle and rest, fuel would bubble out of the jet - causing bore washing, poor pick-up, and horrendously rich CO mixtures at idle! Fitting the float integral with the carb, directly below the jet hole (port/orifice), eliminated this problem. Jet temperature compensation - This was first aired on HS types

SU CARBURETTORS - HOW THEY WORK

Basic knowledge Even though the SU carburetter (carb) is a very basic yet precise instrument, some fundamental understanding on just how it works is needed to be able to deal with common problems and tuning. Following is as basic a description of what's going on that I can manage! First you need to be comfortable with the main aim of any carb - to supply the engine with a finely atomized fuel/air mixture in the right strength for all operating conditions. This means from idle to flat out and everything in-between. All carbs achieve this using the same method - a venturi or choke (restriction) is used to speed up the velocity of the in-coming air to create a reduction in pressure. This is used to draw fuel from the float chamber via a suitably sized jet hole into the air stream, and hence into the engine. The perfect carb will supply the engine with optimum mixture for both maximum power throughout the full throttle-angle range (variable restriction - as in butterfly and spindle) a

SU Carbs - The history

Practically every Mini owner can name the brilliant engineer responsible for our obsession. Many can name the man responsible for the rubber suspension spring.

A goodly number know a fair bit about the engine's heritage and the man who came up with the extremely efficient cylinder head design.They account for the biggest chunks of the Mini's anatomy. But what about that other extremely simple yet hugely effective instrument that features so prominently when engine tuning occurs - the SU carburetter? A limited few can tell you what 'SU' stands for, extremely few have any idea of its concept and evolution. So let's put that right… In the beginning Strangely enough, it all started way back with William Banks Skinner; one of the owners/directors of the well-known Lilly and Skinner footwear distributors.

C-STN17 - MINI SPARES STAGE ONE KIT (998cc only)

Beware: Instructions must be read carefully.

Although the 998/1300 stage one kits are bolt on parts easily fitted by any person with mechanical knowledge, the following must be understood.

14.07.07 – Croft Report by Keith Calver

Whisking the head off again after removal at Silverstone to found out what the problem was 9obviously bent exhaust valve) I was praying that it had not trashed the head. I couldn't face having to do another race head so soon. Fortunately it had just dinged the edge of the seat in the head slightly – so a new valve, guide re-ream, and seat 'trim' got thing sorted.

With all the bits re-applied I took the car back down to genial Pete at Alwyn Kershaw's....

5 SPEED GEARBOX DISMANTLING SHEET

Your 5 speed gearbox has a special 5th gear, laygear, and reverse idler shaft assembled with a modified gearbox main case and a different speedo end casting.

These parts must be removed before the main gearbox cluster can be removed. When a clean work area has been prepared, the removal of the 5th gear and laygear is as follows.

1. Remove the new speedo end casting assembly with the two bearings. These are a slide fit in the casting and are not positively retained.

2. Remove taper bearing No LM11749 off the 5th gear shaft along with the needle roller bearing carrier from the bore of the 5th gear, leaving the gear loose on the shaft.

3. Remove diff and housing as per workshop manual, turn the selector rod at base of diff housing area anti clockwise-and with the spool pull out as far as possible...

Historical Article - Nov 1991 - MINI SPARES 1000CC STAGE ONE KIT

Both Keith Calver and Keith Dodd have fitted the Mini Spares kit to their 1000cc cars. Keith Calver was involved in getting the ignitions and needle settings correct at Peter Baldwin’s (Marshalls) rolling road in Cambridge.

Many people already have some of the parts on their car without know how close they are to extra power. The parts required are the original Competition Silencers exhaust RC40, Mini Spares special inlet manifold, Maniflow freeflow exhaust manifold...